Chapter 9
Unlike the tax office and Magicians guild, the next shop was elsewhere in the city. We continued further down one of the main boulevards to the right of the square. Or rather, to the west assuming the sun worked the same way here that it does in the world I came from.
“All the best shops are on the side of the city closest to the docks,” Mary explained. “While there are plenty of land-based merchant caravans, a lot of the best goods come in by boat. So naturally this would be the perfect place to get some new clothes for my apprentice. Jeanne does absolutely amazing work and can even handle millinery!”
“That’s surprising. I would have thought there’d be a separate guild for hat-making.”
“There is, but the Milliners guild has been going through tough financial times recently due to a change in fashion. The tailors guild offered a partnership to stop them from going under, but one of the conditions was that master tailors could be allowed to produce headwear.”
“That sounds about as cut-throat as some of the guilds back in my world were. Historically, at least.”
“The tailors guild really isn’t one to mess around with. Even I stay clear of messing with them. They’ve even managed to worm their way into holding controlling shares on much of the local flax and wool industries, and they’ve started to send me letters asking for information on mundane world weaving techniques.”
“So there’s some fabric production here?”
“It’s a decent enough environment for making linen, and sheep can grow everywhere. However, the local dyers guild seems a bit behind the times compared to much of the imports. I try to avoid bright colors anyways given were we live, but many of the society ladies here would kill for something flashier.”
“It’s good knowing some things are similar between worlds.”
“Of course. There’s always people who are vain.”
“Like with that ribbon on your hat? If everything here is still hand-woven, that must have cost its weight in gold.”
“S-shut up! I need to dress properly for my position. I’m a respected member of the community!”
“Respected?”
“Near enough to it.”
“You certainly seemed feared, so I guess by Machiavelli’s standards you’re right.”
“Is this any way for an apprentice to talk to her master?”
“Isn’t it your job to be teaching me stuff like that?”
At least she seems flustered enough to be aware of how people have been reacting to her. It’s actually kind of cute. If only there wasn’t evidence to imply that they were justified for freaking out at the sight of her.
It was only a short walk to the tailor’s shop. The shop was marked by a sign showing a pair of fabric shears, and a dress form could be seen through a window. Mary opened the door, a set of bells letting out a charming clinging noise.
The interior of the shop had several dress forms covering several sizes in both male and female forms, bolts of cloth lined the back and side walls, with several doors embedded in them and a full length mirror against one of the walls. The comforting scent of wool and hair canvas filled the air.
A closer look showed most of the cloth was wool, with a tendency towards heavier weights and coating fabrics. There was still a notable selection of silks, most in plain weaves but with a few brocades and what appeared to be jacquard fabrics. A glass-fronted cabinet in a corner was filled with brocaded ribbons, plain-weave ribbons, and other assorted laces and trims.
One of the doors opened, and a woman in her late twenties came out. Beyond the doorway several cutting tables could be seen, with several younger workers thread-tracing, cutting, and basting fabrics together. There was even an old treadle Singer visible.
“Mary!” the lady cried. “It’s been forever since I’ve seen you! The guild has been on my case forever asking after you, even though they know it’s bad form to give out customer's information.”
“What do they want now?”
“They heard you know a way to create a most brilliant purple dye, and have been wanting me to offer you a discount in exchange for its secret.”
“That’s not even in their specialty!” Mary shouted in return. “They already threw a fit when I wouldn’t even consider telling them how to automate thread spinning. They already have a monopoly on tailoring, can’t they just leave me alone?”
“You know how to make aniline dyes?” I butted in. Honestly Mary’s weird bits of knowledge fascinated me. She seemed eerily well informed on all sorts of scientific topics, despite saying most of the books that make their way to our world are fantasy novels. Aniline dyes specifically were developed in the mid-19th century.
While they didn’t say this was what the guild was after, the bright purple that came to be known as mauve was the first synthetic dye to be discovered, and took the world of fashion by an absolute storm upon its invention. Costume historians often use the presence of the color in works of media or in surviving pieces in order to help date the period the garment was produced and worn. Of course aniline dyes would be the first thing to come to mind when it comes to a bright purple.
Actually, the state of science and industry in this world seems rather spotty. I wonder if it’s magic holding things back, or rather transmigrants to this world and books causing boosts to certain industries. If there are guilds trying to get Mary to help industrialize textile production then I would assume they know she learned of the knowledge in some sort of book. Which also leads to the question what kind of book she got that from?
For all I know she just happened to read a fantasy novel with it mentioned as a plot point. I mean, based on the discussion yesterday that’s where she learns most of the scientific principles she’s mentioned to me. This really is quite fascinating and concerning. I can just pray that she doesn’t learn anything too dangerous like if sh-
“Rose!”
“Sorry, what?”
“Jeanne needs to take your measurements now!”
“Oh…”
Mary pointed me to one of the other doors, which was open to reveal a fitting room with the tailor waiting inside. Entering, and closing the door behind me, I turned to face the tailor.
“Since you didn’t seem to be paying attention earlier, my name’s Jeanne. You should know how this goes.”
“?”
“I can’t get decent measurements with all those layers on.” She gestured to a chair. “They aren’t going to run away.”
“Aye ma’am,” I responded, instinct kicking in. She had a nice, pleasant tone, but there was a slight strength to her words that made me wary of getting on her bad side.
Stripping off my sword belt and most of the outer layers, she showed a bit of surprise when she saw me in my shift. This turned into downright shock when the shift followed the other clothes onto the pile.
“What is that?”
“A bra?”
“I thought it was odd when I saw you weren’t wearing any stays, but to think you were wearing something like this…”
“What about it?”
“H-How is it made? I don’t recognize the fabric used, and it doesn’t look like it has any boning.”
“Elastic knit.”
She seemed absorbed in thought, staring at the garment closely and intently. It almost felt like she was about to reach out and touch it, but thankfully she returned to her senses.
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“Right.” She pulled out her measuring tape and a small note-pad, her first target being my head.
“You need a hat to show your position, and I’m pleased to say that I make the very best hats for witches in the city of Porte.”
“I’ve been wondering about that. I’ve heard a few people call this place a city, and a few a town.”
“Ah. Officially Porte is a town. Legally, Porte is a town. But, a certain someone got it in the lord's head that the fiscal duties of a city to the higher ups are much greater than that of a town, even if on paper a city has more prestige. So, we’ve been in a state of limbo. Much of the instability among the guilds here has been caused by this, as in their charters guilds have different sets of duties depending on the legal status of the settlement. Oddly this has caused innovation, albeit in a fast and loose manner, but most people would be more comfortable if we had the solid status of a city we technically deserve based on our population size and export yields. But a certain someone had whispered what many call madness into the lord's ear, and explained how to pull it off legally too.”
Hmm, I wonder who this person could be? I’m just thankful it probably has nothing to do with me. I’d probably end up like a Giles Corey under the weight of all this foreshadowing if it did.
“Odd,” I replied.
Having switched from measuring armscye to bust point, Jeanne looked up at me.
“You know this is probably going to cause trouble for you down the road as her apprentice, right?”
“Just let me live in denial.”
Moving on to hips and inseam.
“Speaking of living in denial, you used to live in the mundane world, right?”
“Yes.”
“You must tell me about the trends over there!”
“I guess blue is supposed to be in this upcoming year? I don’t see how trends in a different world will help you out here. I know a few magazines said ‘return to nature’ was going to be a popular upcoming trend. God, did that turn out to be true for me.”
“No, I mean, what kinds of clothes are people wearing? How are they made? How are they making this blue color, for that matter?”
“Uhm…I don’t know?” Feigning ignorance seemed like the best course of action, looking at the glint in her eyes.
“Don’t lie to me like that. You were familiar with the purple dye that the Mary’s been reported to know how to make.”
Oops.
“I guess people are really liking indigo. Do you know that plant?”
She visibly deflated before my eyes.
“What? That’s just boring. Of course I know indigo.”
With a sigh, she finished up writing down the measurements. She motioned for me to get dressed, then continued to speak.
“Do you prefer your stays with or without shoulder straps?”
“Without.”
“Mary has instructed me to listen to you for any preferences you might have, and honestly her pockets are quite deep.”
“Oh. Is blackwork embroidery a big thing here? If so, a touch of it on the cuffs of my shifts might be nice. I might need to check out your collection of garters too. And could I get a touch of eyelet lace around the bottom brim of my hat?”
“Anything else?”
“I would prefer stockings that were black. The dresses should be a black or a dark blue too.”
“It seems like you and her are birds of a feather for preferences.”
I winced at the comparison.
“By the way, why are you so familiar with the clothing here? I was led to believe garments are massively different in the mundane world.”
“Why do you have a sewing machine from my world?”
“Touché. I spent a fortune tracking it down. In fact, I became acquainted with Mary while searching for it. Artifacts like that have practically become legendary in the guild, and it’s rumored that a shop with one is sure to succeed. It’s unable to replace a lot of the sewing, but it makes long seams an absolute breeze to finish.”
“Pad-stitching by hand is so relaxing though.”
Upon me saying this her face turned disapproving.
“You probably can get away with it since you’re her apprentice, but our guild is a bit touchy about our secrets. How do you know that?”
“I read it in a book. It wasn’t any sort of deep knowledge back in my world.”
“Just keep in mind what you knew there may have life-altering consequences in our world. Knowledge can be an incredibly powerful tool, even more so in the hands of a magic practitioner such as yourself. I can’t even imagine what Mary is thinking not giving you this warning herself.”
“Does she seem like the type to give warnings?”
“True,” Jeanne replied, opening the door back into the main area of the shop.
Mary was sitting on a chair by a dress form containing a half-draped wedding gown, drinking a cup of tea. She nodded to me, then got up and walked over to Jeanne.
“When should it be ready?”
“For you? In a week. Her sizes are already similar to yours, and thankfully her tastes are rather simple.”
“Thanks. She was acting rather foolish yesterday, but she has a good head on her shoulders. Great minds think alike and all that.”
` Jeanne deserves all the credit in the world for keeping a straight face upon hearing this. I felt both concerned that I had received such an evaluation from Mary, and indignant that the look Jeanne shot me implied she thought there was a passing similarity between the witch and myself.
Seemingly unaware of this exchange, Mary turned to me.
“That should be it for today. If we leave now, we should be able to get home with a few hours to spare before dark.”
Looks like it’s finally time to go back to home sweet home.
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